You Didn’t Show Up for Your Court
Date – Now Whaddya Do?
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
Once you get a traffic ticket even for an infraction, many people are
under the mistaken belief that if you manage not to show up on the day your ticket is set for a hearing, that the next time
you show up, the officer who issued you the ticket will not show up in Court and you can "beat" the ticket.
You are so wrong, and man ‘o man will it cost you!
Here are your Practical Legal Pointers -- When the cop
makes you sign the traffic ticket, he tells you that you are not pleading guilty to the ticket, but you are promising to come
to Court on that specific day. That first appearance is not a trial. The cop who issued the citation is never there. It’s
an arraignment hearing. It’s you and the Judge. You can plead Guilty, Not Guilty or Nolo Contendre [Nolo] – Latin
for your don’t disagree, but you’re not pleading guilty – but know that for purposes of legal stuff it’s
treated like a guilty plea.
If you think you’re
all smart and stuff and decide it’s better not to appear, an additional charge will be added to your ticket for Failure
to Appear under Vehicle Code 40508A. There are only 3 acceptable reasons for not appearing:
1. You were in the hospital
2.
You were in the military on active duty
3. You were
in jail
Anything short of these reasons is not a "showing
of good cause". If you are not going to appear on your original arraignment date it’s best to come to the Court
any day before that hearing date and talk with the clerk. If you don’t get a written piece of paper that changes your
appearance date, you can count on having a problem, so insist that the clerk give you paperwork, or plan to change your plans.
Now you have the fine for your original violation and another fine
for the Failure to Appear, and the possibility of a special assessment of $ 300.00. It gets worse. You can have a Bench Warrant
issued against you. If you get stopped for any reason, you’ll have to post bail to be released. This mess you’ve
gotten yourself into can get even worse. The fine can be turned over to "collections". Your license can be revoked,
your car can be impounded; there are sanctions upon sanctions; penalties; fines and assessments, worse than anything the IRS
has dreamed up.
Traffic tickets by themselves are not
too expensive, but the assessments that go with them make them very difficult to pay. But waiting and trying to "game
the system" doesn’t help. If you plead Guilty you pay the fine and assessments, go to Traffic School, or do Community
Service. Plead Not Guilty and you pay the same amount in bail so you can even get to a trial, it’s like having to "ante
up".
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818)
753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Help! The IRS Is After Me !
By Joann Deutch,
Attorney © 2010
Trouble
with the IRS? It’s not my fault ! Your spouse made a mess of it. Your paycheck, less tax liens - is next
to nothing. The money in your checking account has been snatched by the taxman. How did this happen? When
you and your spouse file a Joint Tax Return, the tax obligation is a called Joint and Several liability. Whaddya do?
Practical Legal Pointers - You might be able to get off
the hook. Even if you did sign the return. Here’s how. The IRS has a not-well-known category called “Innocent
Spouse”. If you qualify, even though you and your spouse have come up short on paying taxes, you can be excused the
liability. The entire tax obligation will be your spouse’s.
Here’s what you need to prove to the IRS:
“1. You filed a joint return.
2. There
is an understated tax on the return that is due to erroneous items of your spouse.
3. You can show that when you signed the joint return you did not know, and had no reason to
know, that the understated tax existed .
4. Taking into account all the facts and circumstances, it would be unfair to hold you liable for the understated
tax.”
To figure
out if you qualify you need to know about the definitions for the terms the IRS is using.
What’s an Understated Tax?
1. It’s when you and your spouse
didn’t report all of your income OR,
2. Your spouse claimed deductions that were stretch of the imagination.
The IRS gives the following example: “Your spouse claimed $4,000 for security costs related to a home office.
It was actually veterinary and food costs for your family’s two dogs.”
Here’s
another common example: In Hollywood people try to deduct their wardrobes all the time. An actual case said NO
WAY: A male model who attempted to deduct his entire designer wardrobe on the grounds that he needed to look great every
time. [In fact if clothes are suitable for everyday where, they are not deductible.]
3. You
need to prove to the IRS that you didn’t know about the incorrect tax information your spouse filed. And you can’t
play stupid. If you should have known - then you’ll be liable.
An example: Your spouse won $25,000
in Vegas. You didn’t even know your spouse went to Vegas. The money never went into any bank account you
saw, and there was no flashy spending that was different from what your spouse usually did.
And the last
set of factors that the IRS considers in evaluating whether to grant you Innocent Spouse status:
Did you receive a significant benefit either directly or indirectly, from the understated tax?
If your spouse cheated on your taxes and you’re driving a new car with the savings, forget it!
Will you suffer a significant economic hardship if relief is not granted?
Did your spouse/former spouse desert you?
Were you and your spouse divorced or separated?
Was
your spouse/former spouse an abuser? – either emotionally or physically, such that you were unlikely to challenge their
authority.
These lists are not exhaustive. They
give you an idea of the issues. Log on to : www.irs. gov . Click on “Individuals,” “Tax Information
for Innocent Spouses”.
Good luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney
with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Fair
Debt Collecting – Protect Yourself
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
Times are hard. You just received your first nerve-jangling call
from a debt collector. You can probably count on it not being your last. We’ve all heard some pretty wild stories about
the behavior of these folks.
The good news is that there
are rules about what these callers [or letters] can say.
The
Fair Debt Collection Practices Act spells out your rights. For The Practical Legal Pointers you need to know what
your rights are. My best advice - take notes. You can bet that the person calling is taking notes [it will be
company policy]. What you can’t count on is that those notes will say the same thing you understood from each
conversation.
1. The collector is obligated to identify
themselves [every time they call], and give you the name of the company they are working with. The first thing to do
is ask for an address and phone number. Don’t be surprised if they hang up on you. Make notes anyway.
a. They can use an alias. But, they must be the only person at that employer who uses thatalias. You’re
entitled to be able to identify the person who actually called you through the company records. Their sense of humor?
Someone will always be a “Mr. Green” - as in your money is green.
2. Within 5 days of that first call, expect to get a letter about the debt. It should notify you that you have
the right to dispute the bill. Don’t miss your deadlines. I know everyone always wants to deal with these things
by phone, but trust me, you want to do this in writing. You want a copy of your letter. You want to have at least
“Delivery Confirmation” from the post office. Your letter gets you the following breathing room -
a. “Upon receipt of the debtor’s notice of a dispute or request to verify the existence or amount of a debt, or
obtain information relating to it, the debt collection agency must stop efforts to collect the debt until it obtains the required
verification and provides it to the debtor.”
b. And from there it is the “..[o]bligation of debt collection agency to report dispute to credit reporting agency.
… the debt collection agency must notify any credit reporting agency to which it has reported adverse credit information
that the debtor has registered a dispute, so that the credit reporting agency can investigate the dispute.”
3. And the following is a list of a few things the debt collector
can not threaten you with:
take action that it does
not actually intend to take
take action that it cannot
lawfully take
garnish wages without a court order
seize Social Security benefits
seize property without a court order
arrest anyone unless the action is lawful and is in fact contemplated
assign the debt to a third person, accompanied by a false representation that the assignment this would cut off a
defense
file suit if it does not intend to do so
The penalty for violating any of these things is between $100 and
$1,000. You need to file a Small Claims complaint and make your pitch to the Judge. If the collection agency has
been total jerks and done lots of things that are wrong, I say try to get penalties for each thing they did that was not allowed.
Yup. You’ll need those notes.
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net
-- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
FAQs about Child Support
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
I’m goanna call this a Quick Reference Guide for Child Support in California. If you’re
not caught in the quicksand, you surely know someone who is. So what’s the most important question?
“How much Child Support can I get? How much Child Support
do I need to pay?”
The Practical Legal Pointers
- Know what you’re up against. Here’s what the Child Support Formula is based on – Your Income.
Here are the facts behind the formula. What the Court considers “Your Income”
Wages
Tips
Commission
Bonuses
Self-employed Earnings
Unemployment payments
Disability & Worker’s Comp
Interest
Dividends
Rental Income
Disability & Social Security
Income
Payments due you - car accident payments/lottery
winnings, etc.
It’s not just the money you report
on your tax returns. It’s supposed to be everything -doesn’t matter if it’s reported or taxed.
The second part in the formula is where the Court determines your
“Disposable Income” – The Court says you can deduct the items listed below from the total from the list
above. This final number gets plugged into the formula to determine Child Support
Taxes
Mandatory Union
Dues
Health Premiums
Child Support actually paid (for other children)
Cost of raising children from another marriage
What’s
missing? Like - your mortgage payment; your car payment; your car insurance. That’s going to hurt.
You can work this formula for yourself by logging on to:https://www.cse.ca.gov/ChildSupport/cse/guidelineCalculator. Yup - The truth is definitely ugly. But these are the basics facts.
This explains much of the wrangling over how much time the non-paying parent wants/needs to
spend with the kids in order to reduce Child Support payments. So what’s left to argue over? Other than the fact
that the Child Support is either not enough to live on, or too much to pay?
There is a guidebook that you can read to learn about some of the most common exceptions to this formula. Search
for the California Guide Child Support Calculator User Guide. The Guide talks about exceptions like:
Your “Disposable Income” will be modified by catastrophic
illness
The child support continues until the kids
are 18. Beyond that if they are still in school
Disability
income only considers the employers contribution – not what you’ve already paid out of your check.
You’ll have to pony it up on investments even if they are
tax free
Do you really need to pay an attorney fees
equal to the cost of sending your kid to college? Well there is some fine print that might change the outcome where
lawyer fees are necessary. The classic example is where one parent runs a company and/or “the real income”
is a slippery number. A lawyer is going to try to establish “Disposable Income” from information about what
I call “The Money Spent Theory”. Instead of looking at tax returns which everyone tries to fudge, I’d
want to look at what cars does he/she have; the mortgage note; does the family travel; what are the monthly credit
card bills; what other possessions does the family have that represent income spent? If you can spend it, someone has
earned it. This is a plain and simple way of getting at what the spouse actually has to spend.
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
He Should Pay the Whole Bill
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
You’ve been in a car accident. The person has insurance. You think – okay - I’m covered.
You’re steaming mad. The insurance company is only going to pay 75% of your medical bills, and the repair to your car.
“This stinks”. How’d you get here?
Practical
Legal Pointers -
The car accident falls under the category of “Legal Tort” – not the dessert torte.
When the lawyers are asking you questions, this is what we are hunting
for:
1. Did the other person owe you a Duty of Care
?
2. Did that person breach that Duty of Care ?
3. Were you injured ?
And the one that’s the kicker –
4. Was the other person’s breach what caused the accident ?
The tricky part
about Number 4 is whether the accident and injury were directly caused by the other person’s actions and choices.
Courts have developed a balancing act between the parties which we call the "But For” rule. The snotty Latin
term is the "Sine Qua Non" rule – going back to Olde English law. The language makes it a little easier
to understand - “But For” what the other person did would there have been an accident?
Easy enough.
We’re done right? So why are courtrooms filed with cases about whose fault it was?
Well, that’s
because right on the heels of the “But For” rule is the “Proximate Cause” rule. That one’s
a beast. That’s were the Judge and/or insurance adjustor wants to throw back some of the responsibility for the
accident on you. That’s how the other person gets off not paying for the whole bill.
So I thought
I’d give you a peek into the Jury Room. Here is what the Judge is likely to tell the jurors.
“A substantial factor in causing harm is a factor that a reasonable person would consider
to have contributed to the harm. It must be more than a remote or trivial factor. It does not have to be the only cause of
the harm.
[Conduct is not a substantial factor in causing
harm if the same harm would have occurred without that conduct.]” California Civil Jury Instruction. 430
Here’s how you need to think your way though this. An act caused the accident. Was any of it under your
control? Say you got hit, but you were drinking a Coke at the time. It might/might not have made any difference
in the accident. The job of the other person’s attorney/insurance adjuster is to try to make all these little
things seem like they make a difference as to whether the accident would have happened at all, or could you have done something
to change the outcome? Lots of bad things could have happened but the question is, “Can you tie a string between
the act that caused the accident and the accident?” The string must remain uncut. If you’re saying
“but”, “but”, “but”, you’re probably in trouble.
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net
-- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
A peek into the jury room...
| So, I thought I’d give you a peek into the Jury room. Here is the langaugae that
a Judge will give to the jury to decide |
3.1-4 Proximate Cause - Substantial Factor
Revised
to January 1, 2008
Negligence is a substantial factor
in bringing about an injury if it contributes materially to the production of the injury.
<Read the next section only where one or more of the parties requests it and one or more
of the theories of causation upon which the case has been presented fairly requires that it be given to ensure that the jurors
are not misled.>
Negligence contributes materially
to the production of an injury if its causative effects remain in active operation until the moment of injury, or at least
until the setting in motion of the final active injurious force which immediately produces or precedes the injury. By
this definition, negligence which makes only a remote, a trivial or an inconsequential contribution to the production of an
injury is not a substantial factor in bringing about the injury, and thus is not a proximate cause of the injury.
Authority
which considers whether the injury would not have occurred but for the defendant's negligent act.
The Prima-Facie Case for Negligence
(NB!: This is the basic framework; you will need to populate it with more rules)
I. Duty:
Duty issues are legal determinations for the judge only:
[1]. ∂ owes a legal duty to π;
[a].
Always yes, unless a special no-duty rule says otherwise.
[2].
to comport with the standard of care prescribed by law
[a].
To act as a reasonable and prudent person would under the same or similar
circumstances to avoid or minimize a risk of harm;
[i].
Sometimes this standard is modified—more or less.
[ii].
Other times the standard is not modified but the evidence which may be
admitted to satisfy the standard is broadened.
[b].
Sometimes the standard is prescribed by statute or regulation, i.e., negligence per
se.
II. Breach:
Breach issues are for the jury, unless there is no triable issue
of fact [e.g., think of summary
judgment]. Once the
judge decides on the proper “standard of care” for the case, see supra, the
jury must determine whether the ∂ has failed to conform to the applicable standard of
care.
Stated another way, the jury must decided whether
the ∂ has breached his or her “duty of care”
or was actually “negligent.” For example:
[1]. ∂ has created an unreasonable risk of harm in light of the applicable standard; or
[a]. Various tools can be used to help the jury evaluate whether this is the case.
[2]. In a negligence per se case, ∂ has violated the applicable
statute or regulation [without a
legally recognized
excuse].1
1 ∂ bears the burden to prove that any
violation was excused.
III. Legally Cognizable Harm:
Harm is a mixed question of fact and law. Whether the π has
actually suffered any “harm” is an
issue
for the jury, unless there is no triable issue of fact. But whether the “harm” suffered is
legally cognizable—that is to say one the law will recognize—is an issue for the
judge only.
[1]. Traditionally, the π must suffer
actual injury, harm, or damage to self or property.
[2].
Some exceptions exist where the rule is relaxed a bit and other harms become cognizable.
IV. Cause in Fact:
Actual-cause
issues are for the jury, unless there is no triable issue of fact.
[1]. In the vast majority of cases, the π must show that but for ∂’s breach [i.e., negligence] π
would not have been harmed in the manner complained of by π.
[2]. In some limited circumstances or jurisdictions, the π may
instead show that ∂’s breach
[i.e., negligence]
was a substantial factor in causing π’s harm.
V.
Proximate Cause (Scope of Risk):
Scope-of-risk issues
are for the jury, unless there is no triable issue of fact.
[1].
Type of harm suffered by π falls within the scope of the risk the ∂ negligently created—
i.e., a reasonable person would have foreseen harm of the same general type; and
Special Rules:
[a]. An intervening act or force (even an intentionally tortious or criminal one) can fall
within the scope of the risk the ∂ negligently created so long as the intervening act
or force, or one of the same general type, is foreseeable.
[b]. The precise manner in which the harm occurs need not be foreseeable.
[c]. The extent of the harm suffered by π need not be foreseeable.
[2]. π falls within the class of persons risked by ∂’s
negligence—i.e., a reasonable person
would have
foreseen harm of the same general type to a class of persons to which π
belongs.
Both Chris and Burt suffered
An act from which an injury results as a natural, direct, uninterrupted
consequence and without which the injury would not have occurred.
West's Encyclopedia of American Law, edition 2. Copyright 2008 The Gale Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
proximate cause n. a happening which results in an event, particularly
injury due to negligence or an intentional wrongful act. In order to prevail (win) in a lawsuit for damages due to negligence
or some other wrong, it is essential to claim (plead) proximate cause in the complaint and to prove in trial that the negligent
act of the defendant was the proximate cause (and not some other reason) of the damages to the plaintiff (person filing the
lawsuit). Sometimes there is an intervening cause which comes between the original negligence of the defendant and the injured
plaintiff, which will either reduce the amount of responsibility or, if this intervening cause is the substantial reason for
the injury, then the defendant will not be liable at all. In criminal law, the defendant's act must have been the proximate
cause of the death of a victim to prove murder or manslaughter. (See: negligence, intervening cause).
Getting
the Hang of Bank Lingo
By Joann Deutch, Attorney
© 2010
These days banks use language that is really a secret code. So you need to take a minute to be sure that whenever you
are dealing with your bank you really know what you are signing up for. By paying attention you can get a better deal.
Here’s what the bank will tell you. “This is how we calculate interest.” I’m still laughing.
Yeah right. I’m all over this.
Here’s what you really want to know - Practical Legal Pointers
When you open
a checking account at some banks you can get an “interest bearing account” – one that pays you interest
on the money that’s left hanging around in the account. Back-in-the-day, the interest was worth it, these days it’s
chicken feed. So what can you do?
Pay attention to terms like APY – the amount of interest you’ll earn in a year on the money you’ve deposited.
Sometimes you’ll see APR. So what’s the difference? This one is the interest you’ll earn in
a year when the bank pays you “interest on your interest”. BUT, there’s always a catch. You need to
look at the “compounding period”. Is it daily, monthly, quarterly, or what? The shorter the compounding
period, the more interest you make.
For example of you deposit $100, and interest is compounded quarterly [3 times a year] you’d have earned $10.07 for
doing nothing. That’s why everyone tells you to put away your nickels and dimes for retirement.
Now watch what
your credit card company does to you. You charged a new pocketbook for $100. You’re going to pay it off
on your credit card over 5 years @ 27% interest. Your pocketbook has cost you $385.55. For that price it better
be a designer bag. Holy smokes! How badly do you really want that bag?
So now that
I have your attention, you need to know you can make money off the banks, not to the same tune that they are ripping you off
on your credit cards - but still - better than stuffing cash in the mattress.
When times get better banks usually
pay about 5% interest on your “deposit account” There are several deposit account choices, so be sure you know
what the restrictions are on each one.
A Money Market Account is a savings account that has s minimum amount you need to keep in the bank. It also has a length
of time you need to keep the minimum in there - sometimes as little as 3 to 6 months. The good thing is that you can make
some withdrawals. The longer the period, the more interest the bank will pay you.
Then there is
the higher paying Certificate of Deposit, or CD. Here you get interest for the length of time [term] you put your money
in the bank. No you can’t withdraw any without paying a penalty - which usually the amount the interest you’ve
earned.
Now that you are a savvy consumer. you know you need to shop banks for interest rates and terms. You know to check how
often they are compounding interest.
And now you know why you need to PAY CASH whenever you can, or pay off more than the minimum every month.
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Legit Reasons to Evict You
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
Lots of people are under the mistaken impression that if you pay your rent on time, you can’t get evicted.
WRONG!
Here’s a list of reasons that your landlord can boot you out - even if you pay your rent on time.
Your “Notice to Quit” [the fancy term for your Eviction Notice] will read something like this:
1.
“The tenant has violated a lawful obligation/covenant of the tenancy.” (a) The landlord should have
already given you a written notice telling you what he/she objects to. You then have a chance to fix it –“cure
the lease violation”. So don’t ignore these notices unless you’re ready to move.
2. “The
tenant is committing/permitting to exist a nuisance in or is causing damage to the rental unit or the building generally.”
(a) Your radios are blasting music – even if it’s during the day. You have mad bad parties.
You’re hommies creep out the neighbors, or you are changing your oil in the driveway and making a mess. Again
you’ll get a lovely letter from the landlord telling you to knock it off. Ignore it at your peril.
3. “The
tenant is creating an unreasonable interference with the comfort, safety, or enjoyment of any of the other residents of the
same or adjacent buildings.”
(a) Your neighbors are complaining about you to the landlord. Your junk
is in the middle of the landing; the neighbors downstairs complain that you kids are always jumping up and down making a racket.
You’ve already gotten a letter from the landlord about the complaints.
4. “The tenant is using/permitting
a rental unit to be used for any illegal purpose.”
(a) No you can’t run a business out of your
apartment; no you can’t sell drugs.
5. “The tenant has refused, after a written request by the landlord
to execute a written extension or renewal.”
(a) Your lease has run out and the landlord wants you to sign
a new lease with maybe more rent, and more or less the same terms as your last lease. Expect to get booted if you don’t
sign up. So work something out with the landlord.
6. “The tenant has refused the landlord reasonable
access to the unit.”
(a) The landlord has the right to come into your apartment to make repairs; to inspect
the apartment; or to show it to future tenants. The landlord needs to give you prior notice that he/she intends to come
in. You don’t need to be there, and you can’t demand that the landlord only come when it’s convenient
for you. So don’t get sassy with the landlord.
7. “The person in possession of the rental unit at
the end of a lease term is a subtenant not approved by the landlord.”
(a) A subtenant is someone you pass
the apartment on to without the written approval of the landlord. Say it’s your apartment, you boyfriend moves in, you
move out. The boyfriend is a subtenant. You’re still responsible for the rent, even though you don’t
live there, and the eviction will be on your record. Get the landlord to okay your boyfriend as a tenant – get
his name put on the lease, or make him move out. Yes he’ll have to sign a lease. Yes it might be for a whole year.
You can’t leave it at “the landlord knows he’s there”.
The following require prior approval
by the Rental Stabilization Division, and require the landlord to pay “Relocation Assistance”.
1. “The
landlord going to live there. His/her spouse; kids; parents or for a resident manager are going to move in.”
(a) Keep an eye on the unit after you move out to be sure the landlord was not jerking your chain.
2. “The
landlord going to demo/ fix up the building or apartment unit[s] and is going to spend $10,000/ unit; and the work will take
45 days or more; OR the landlord’s converting the building to a condo, etc.”
3. “The landlord’s
going to permanently take the apartment of the rental market.”
4. “The landlord has to take the apartment
off the market because a government agency’s ordered the building/unit to be vacated for Muni Code violations, etc.”
Again keep an eye out on the unit after you move, just in case the landlord decides to do something fishy. And know
your rights and obligations. It’s a two way street when you don’t own where you live.
Good luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with
offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
How to Protect the Equity in Your House
By Joann Deutch, Attorney ©
2010
Times are
hard and getting harder. If you own your own home there are ways to protect some of the cash you have invested in your
house against your creditors.
First
- let me explain some of the technical terms. The cash you have in your house is the difference between what you
owe – on the house - and what its worth. In business terms, that’s called your “equity”. Ask
yourself, “If I sell my house, how much $$$ will I be able to put in my pocket after the
deal ?”
Next
- you protect your equity by knowing about and filing a “Homestead Exemption” form. So
what’s with this “Homestead Exemption” ? It’s a way to protect some of the equity in your
home from falling into the hands of your creditors. If you’re dealing with a creditor who wants his money,
you may feel forced to sell your home. That’s when no one is likely to tell you that you can protect some of the
equity in your home, even if this creditor will get stiffed.
Here are the Practical Legal Pointers to help you out.
The Homestead
Exemption is a law in California. It protects you from having your very last dollar you invested
in your home stripped away from you.
Why
do I say you need to file this form? Most people will tell you that you don’t need to file this form.
I’m a “belt and suspender” kind of attorney and I believe you should go the extra mile for important stuff. Filing
it makes you stop and think about your situation before you are in crisis mode. If you know that some of your cash
equity in your home is protected by law from your creditors, should you go out and refinance your home to pay off
this debt? Maybe not. Maybe you should stand firm against the creditor, and here’s why.
The
California Homestead Act says that if you have cash equity in your house, even if the creditor sells your house, you can keep
some of your cash equity. There are requirements:
If you are single you can protect $50,000
If
you are married, you can protect $75,000 [if you and your wife are separated only 1 of you can claim a Homestead Exemption]
If you’re over 65 you can protect $150,000
If you’re over 55 and disabled, you can protect $150,000
And as usual, there are BUTS -
This can be a condo or a house
You need to have been living in this home at the time the creditor filed the lien. This means that
if you have more than 1 house, you need to choose the one you live in, and file that Homestead Exemption against that
property
You have to STAY in the house through to the
bitter end
You can only protect money that’s equity.
So your if mortgage is more than your house is worth - well, you’re out of luck, you have no equity.
That’s where you might find yourself if you act too hastily in refinancing
Let me give you a “for instance” – Your house is worth $450,000. You
have a $300,000 mortgage. You just lost a lawsuit and have a judgment against you for $250,000.The creditor is making
arrangements to force the sale of your home. With a Homestead Exemption the bank gets all its money back and
there is $150,000 left over. Who gets that money? If you’re a senior, you get it all. If not, you and your
wife get $75,000, and the creditor get’s what’s left - $75,000. You still owe the debtor $175,000,
but he can’t get it from the sale of your house. You have a $75,000 cushion to start over. If you didn’t
know about this Exemption, chances are the creditor would have taken the entire $150,000 - leaving you out in the cold.
The
Homestead Exemption is a pre-printed form. You can buy it at any small office supply store. I recommend A ‘n
B Stationery @ 12338 Ventura Blvd. Studio City, CA 91604 - (818) 760-0244. They have
free parking in the back.
You
need to have it recorded with the County Recorder. The recording fee is $9 for the first page. Get a Money
Order. Bring it to 14340 Sylvan St. in Van Nuys weekdays between 8:30 AM – 11:00AM and
1:00 PM - 3:30 PM.
And
what do I always say? Keep a copy for yourself. Ask the Recorder to put a stamp on your copy. You can leave
a self addressed stamped envelop with a copy and they will mail you back your documents with official filing information on
it. [6 weeks later]
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818)
753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
You Have to Break Your Lease
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
Ok, so you signed
a lease and now you have to shut down your business. You have 2 years left on your commercial lease. What should
you do?
Legally you’re on the hook for the entire amount of the rent due for the rest of the term of the lease. That’s
a lot of moola. You shouldn’t try to sneak around the landlord. So the first thing to do it to see if the
landlord will let you break the lease. You’ll undoubtedly have to pay a compromise amount to the landlord.
Of course the landlord doesn’t want the unit to be empty. At the same time he doesn’t want to have to chase you
for the money.
No dice? The landlord wants way more than you want to pay. Remember you submitted a form for a credit check so
the landlord knows were to find you and your money.
What are the Practical Legal Pointers here ? – You have to understand the distinction between a sublet and an assignment.
In a sublet, even though someone else [the sub tenant] is now in possession of your rental property, you - the original lessee
- are still responsible to the landlord for the terms of your lease. While you may think this means only the rent, in
fact you need to keep the lights on. You need to continue to have insurance. You need to remember if that some
idiot trips in the store while it’s a sublet, the person who tripped will consider you the landlord. The bottom line?
You need to keep an eye on the sub-tenant – you are not completely off the hook.
In an assignment,
the new tenant has a direct relationship with the landlord. What do I always say? Get it in writing. Your landlord
and the new tenant have entered into a deal, and you are off the hook. Why would the landlord do that? Because
the new tenant has a good solid credit rating, and the landlord is satisfied that he will get his rent [so he can pay the
mortgage]
Sometimes there’s a hitch in the process. You’re reading your lease, and you find language that looks like
this:
ASSIGNMENT AND SUBLETTING. Tenant shall
not assign this Lease or sublet all or any portion of the Premises without on each occasion obtaining the prior written consent
of Landlord, which consent will not be unreasonably withheld. Notwithstanding any assignment or subletting, Tenant will remain
liable for the payment of rent and the performance of all terms and conditions of this Lease. Any attempt to assign or sublet
without Landlord's consent shall be void and shall entitle Landlord to terminate this Lease.”
This sounds
like trouble right? Not so. Look carefully and you’ll find that there is language that says: “consent
will not be unreasonably withheld.” This means that if you find a tenant who has acceptable credit, etc. the landlord
must accept the tenant you are offering him. Why? Because in the law, there is a rule that if one side of a contract
is going to break it, the other side needs to accept reasonable behavior by the breaching party if that will reduce the damages
– lawyers call it mitigation of damages. So here, the landlord will be getting a tenant that is as credit-worthy
as you were when you took on the lease. The new tenant is happy, he’s signing a 2 year lease instead of the more
traditional 5 year lease. And you’re happy.
Often the tenant, in desperation, will stick anyone in the space to help pay the rent. Be careful if you do. Know
that you’re on the hook for your sub tenant’s bad behavior.
Good Luck!
Joann
Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Independent Contractor - To Be or Not to Be?
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
Most people think “Oh goodie, I won’t have to pay taxes.”
Sure the company can classify you as an Independent Contractor. What you might not know is that there are some serious
risks.
From the business owner’s point of view
it looks like a great deal. Pay the worker without the paperwork and deductions that accompany a regular paycheck, saving
about 30%. The salary is reported on I.R.S. form 1099 at the end of the year. The company might even save a bundle
on Worker’s Comp premiums.
The I.R.S. says,
“Generally, you must withhold income taxes, withhold and
pay Social Security and Medicare taxes, and pay unemployment tax on wages paid to an employee. You do not generally have to
withhold or pay any taxes on payments to independent contractors.”
There’s always a BUT.
If it were that
easy, there’d be no employees. Call the worker what you want, but when he gets hurt, you’ll have to deal with
the Department of Labor, Worker’s Compensation Board or the legal system.
So here we are at the Practical Legal Pointers: The employer’s decision to classify the
worker as an Independent Contractor doesn’t protect the employer from liability to and for the employee. The government
agency, and the Courts will evaluate the following facts about the worker and his job duties and decide for themselves whether
the classification is proper.
Here is what everyone
is going to look at:
“Facts that provide evidence
of the degree of control and independence …:
Behavior:
Does the company control or have the right to control what the worker does and how the worker does his or her job?
Financial: Are the business aspects of the worker’s job controlled
by the payer? (how worker is paid; are expenses are reimbursed, who provides tools/supplies, etc.)
Type of Relationship: Are there written contracts or employee type benefits (i.e. pension plan,
insurance, vacation pay, etc.)? Will the relationship continue and is the work performed a key aspect of the business?”
If the worker doesn’t have the kind of independence that
these benchmarks require, then he will be classified by the government agency and the Court as an employee. Now you
got big trouble. The worker is not listed on your insurance. Your Worker’s Comp carrier refuses to provide you
with coverage. Your company will be exposed for the liability.
“If an individual has been misclassified as an independent contractor and the employer has not provided workers’
compensation coverage for the individual, the employer can be held liable for civil tort liability not only to the individual,
but also to third parties who are injured as a result of negligent acts engaged in by the misclassified individual in the
course and scope of employment.” Labor Code Sec. 3602; 3706)
Of course when it rains it pours. On top of being financially responsible for this worker who’s no longer
such a great bargain, you’ll be hit with the fact that now you owe all those back taxes and deductions, your part of
social security, and the part usually paid by the employer, along with a whopping 10% penalty.
“If individuals classified as independent contractors are found to be employees, the
employer will be assessed amounts due for unemployment insurance contributions, disability insurance contributions; state
income tax withholding [unless an employer can show the income was reported and all taxes due were paid by the employee] Employers
who fail to pay contributions for unemployment or state disability insurance benefits without good cause, will pay a penalty
of 10%.” Unemployment Insurance Code Sec.1112
So
don’t take shortcuts when it comes to employees. If you’re not sure whether the worker can be classified as an
Independent Contractor the IRS has a form you can fill out and file with your query.
Form SS – 8: Determination of Worker Status for Purposes of Federal Employment Taxes
and Income Tax Withholding. It may take as long as 6 months to hear from the IRS. In the meantime pay the worker on
the regular payroll, and then file for a refund of the deductions paid after the worker’s status is confirmed.
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net
-- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
You’ve Been Robbed!
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
It may not have been by a dude with a gun, but identity theft is just as overwhelming.
When I learned that anyone can go to a post office and submit a change of address for your mail I was shocked. How easy
can it be to commit identity theft?
Can’t
happen to me? Got a store discount card or a credit or debit card? Think again, it can happen to you.
This can be the beginning of a major ordeal for you. This is
more serious than someone stealing your credit card and charging a few hundred dollars to your card before your bank calls
you. With your mail, the identify thieves will open new accounts, get credit cards where the statements never even come
to you. This gets to be serious stuff.
Practical
Legal Pointers: The first thing to do, and don’t be lazy - is to call and place a fraud alert on each AND
every one of your cards. The bank may want to re-issue cards, which means you’re going to be without them for
a few days. After the Fraud Alert is placed, expect that whenever you make a transaction over a few hundred dollars
the card will be declined, forcing you to call your credit card issuer and answer some extra security questions. They
once asked me about an address that I had so long ago I’d forgotten all about it. Three days later it hit.
Oh yeah. I lived there 30 years ago.
These numbers
used to be impossible to get a hold of. So, here they are. You’ve heard me say before, keep a written record. Call them, AND send a email. Keep a copy
of the email, or the letter.
Equifax:
1-800-525-6285
P.O. Box 740241
Atlanta, GA 30374- 0241
www.equifax.com
Experian:
1-888-EXPERIAN (397-3742)
P.O. Box 9532
Allen, TX 75013
www.experian.com
TransUnion:
1-800-680-7289
Fraud Victim Assistance Division
P.O.
Box 6790
Fullerton, CA 92834-6790
www.transunion.com
As far as you’re concerned these companies hold your future in their hands. They issue credit reports.
Your interest rates are set by bank and credit card issuers based on the information these companies compile on all of us.
Having placed a fraud alert in your file, you're entitled to order free copies of your credit report. www.annualcreditreport.com or call (877) 322-8228. Unusually when you order a credit report it costs you money, and it lowers your credit rating.
So don’t be willy-nilly about it.
You need to be an ACE detective here and look over all this information
RIGHT AWAY. Be sure your names, address, age, phone number are correct. Check each record. If they are not familiar
to you, and, if you ask, only the last four digits of your SSN will appear on your credit reports. Once you get your credit
reports, review them carefully. Look for everything that you do not recognize.
Here is a Sample for Every Record on
Your Credit Report that is Wrong:
Date
Name
Address
City, State,
Zip Code
Account Number
Name of Creditor
Billing Inquiries
Their Address
City, State, Zip Code
Dear Sir or Madam:
I am writing to dispute a fraudulent (charge or debit)
on my account in the amount of $______. I am a victim of identity theft, and I did not make this (charge or debit). I am requesting
that the (charge be removed or the debit reinstated), that any finance and other charges related to the fraudulent amount
be credited, as well, and that I receive an accurate statement.
Enclosed are copies of (describe any enclosed information, such as a police
report) supporting my position. Please investigate this matter and correct the fraudulent (charge or debit) as soon as possible.
Sincerely,
Your name
Enclosures: (List what you are enclosing)
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with
offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Lawyer’s Secret
By Joann Deutch, Attorney ©
2010
This is for
those of you who run a business, even if it’s at your dining room table. Is your paperwork a total mess? Does it own
the dining room table? Do you toss paperwork when you don’t want to deal with it?
You are your own worst enemy. You need to stop it. I’m not a clutter organizer, but as
an attorney I can tell you that these habits can cost you plenty of money.
My Practical Legal Pointers answer the question: "Why should I take the time to do this?" I know, you want
to be out on that service call, making money. Keeping a paper trail can seem like a waste of your valuable time until you
need it to back you up your version of the events.
Here’s
why it’s critical. You’ve heard the term "Hearsay’, or "Hearsay Evidence". What you need
to know is that no one has to believe hearsay. Why? Mostly because it really means - "I heard him say it." The general
rule is that people’s memories of what others say is not reliable. Our legal system wants to be able to ask this "him
person" questions to clarify what he really meant.
Lawyers
have a secret way around the "Hearsay Rule". It’s called the "Business Records Exception". Here
is when your pile of papers make a big difference. The exception is based on the fact that you and your business keep records
in some sort of orderly fashion. It used to be that people carried Day Runners and jotted things down in them. Now you can
put the same information into your Blackberry. I advise my clients to make notes on the back of invoices and bills about conversations.
Always have a date and the name of the person you spoke with. You have to make these notes either while you are talking with
the person, or shortly thereafter. If you make the notes after you know there is going to be a dispute, they don’t have
the some credibility as they would have if they were made on the spot – in fact they probably have no credibility.
These notes also serve the purpose of what attorneys call "Refreshing
Your Recollection" about one of probably many conversations. When you write things down you actually store it in a different
part of your brain. This gives you a better chance of recalling the details of each conversation. I can’t tell you how
many times people testify to a series of conversations, running several conversations into one narrative. If you can’t
remember the details, your "Business Record" will stand in for your testimony. The facts in your notes are given
great weight in a courtroom hearing.
Even if you’re
not running a business, note taking is a valuable strategy to employ. For example, the I.R.S. says if they gave you wrong
information, BUT you keep proper records, penalties would not be imposed on you. BUT you have the burden of providing the
name of the I.R.S. employee you spoke with. I.R.S. penalties are brutal, so it’s worth it to keep track.
In everyday life you can employ the same strategy. Write on the
pre-printed form at the auto mechanic’s. Jot down notes or phrases on what you talked about - what they promised to
do for you for this "Estimate". When you’re talking to your cell phone company about your bill, or services
they are giving you, write it on the paperwork. If you don’t you’re sure to get "Who told you that. We don’t
do that". You can calmly reply, "Suzanne [employee number] told me that on Monday April 27, 2009 at 5:15 PM, I have
the notes." This puts you in the cat bird seat.
Write
it on a napkin, write it on a match book. It doesn’t matter.
Good Luck!
Joann
Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Do You Have Adverse Possession?
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
Does this mean you took something? Not in this case, but as usual with lawyer-talk it means
something very specific. When a lawyer talks about Adverse Possession, we are talking about who’s going to be able to
legally snatch some of your property. Sure you bought your house, and you may think you own it. The question is do you own
it all or does someone else own part of it? You say to yourself, "That’s not possible". Surprise !
Adverse Possession comes into play every time you build a fence,
or plant a row of trees along your property line. Most people don’t get property surveys to help them locate their property
lines when they make these changes. Surveys are pretty expensive. There might be a big walnut tree on the property line. Do
you put the fence in front or behind the tree? Even more common is when you move into a house and don’t know who put
that fence up, or when that tree was planted.
Whose
fence is it? Whose property is it on, and who has to pay to fix it? Whose tree is it? If the roots are spreading, who has
to pay to get them cut back? 3 inches of your garage is on your neighbor’s property. You got trouble in paradise.
The concept of Adverse Possession is something every lawyer had
to study in law school. It’s an old English concept. If for an uninterrupted 21 years a person [or people] have claimed
and used property, they get title to that land. In California the concept was applied as far back as the original Spanish
Land Grants and the big ranchos. You’ve probably heard of the term "squatter’s rights". You’re
on the right track.
Most lawyers don’t know that
in modern cities, including Los Angeles, you’re unlikely to win a legal battle over that foot or few inches of your
property that your neighbor’s fence or row of trees take up. Here the rule is that you have to have had the property
officially surveyed and you have to have paid taxes on the property that you want to claim under the theory of Adverse Possession
for 21 years. By the way the 21 years can be "tacked’ back to include prior owners.
This however does not solve the entire problem. Your neighbor is saying your fence is on their
property. They want you to tear it down and build a new one on your property. Or worse, they are claiming that your row of
trees is on their property and they want you to pay to rip it down. And here you thought you were just being a good neighbor
by trimming them and keeping everything nice and neat.
The
people who owned the house before you put up the trees or the fence. No one pulled a permit for the fence, and you can’t
tell who put them in. What do you do?
Practical
Legal Pointers: You need to hustle to your curbstone. Look at the lip, near the street. You should see a small piece
of metal the size of a small coin. It will have a nail of some sort through the middle. That is your Survey Button. Sometimes
the metal has vanished and all you can see is a roundish dent in the cement on your curbstone. Your Survey Button marks the
end of your property. You need to jump with in with, "Not my tree - Not my fence. It’s on your property, you take
care of it". Wag your finger at the Survey Button like you mean it. The next thing you do is call both your homeowners
insurance, and your Title Company.
Title Insurance
policies are very important. You buy them when you buy your house. BUT they are not all the same.
There are CLTA [California Land Title Association] and ALTA [American Land Title Association]
policies The CLTA title insurance coverage remains in place until you sell your house. The ALTA is a lender’s policy
which only lasts while you have a loan balance outstanding on your mortgage.
It’s always better to be prepared for the worst. A lawsuit Just what you needed, right? The claims would be
called "Quiet Title" actions. A court will be asked to establish a party’s title to property for things like:
- Boundary disputes
- Surveying errors
-
Adverse possession
- Fraudulent conveyances
- Tax taking matters
The good news is the Title Insurance Company pays for the lawyers who will defend you. [You can ask if they will
pay your favorite lawyer to represent you]. And they pay for the loss of value to your property if you have to give up some
of your yard, etc.
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818)
753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
How Savvy a Business Person are You?
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
Do you have friends and acquaintances that want to mooch off you?
It’s one thing to help someone out when they have no money - but what happens when they "make it big and leave
you behind?" Kinda pisses you off.
Let me give
you a "for instance". Your friend who is struggling to set up a business asks you to help with a website. From there
you get stuck doing a logo that turns out to be masterful stroke of genius. The business takes off, and you never get paid
for your contributions. Your artwork is plastered all over the website and now it’s on billboards and your friend is
rolling in dough.
So what happened? It’s your
fault. You forgot to take care of the details. You forgot to protect your brain work. You need to do this even when you are
dealing in what seems to be a casual situation. Remember your friend is trying to launch a business – so this business,
don’t confuse it with friendship.
Your ideas are
your "intellectual property". They’re yours until you give ‘em away; and you do just that whenever you
don’t make it your business to protect them. The law calls them "proprietary rights". Just like a piece of
real estate. You own it. - You need to protect it.
What
are the Practical Legal Pointers here? I’ll give you some simple copyright concepts to use to protect yourself from
being burned. First, know that "Your work is copyright protected the moment it is created and fixed in a tangible form
that it is perceptible either directly or with the aid of a machine or device." according to the U. S. Copyright Office
- FAQ section of their website. www.copyright.gov . Second, the process for actually filing a copyright isn’t difficult.
The U.S. Copyright Office has all the forms online. You can fill them out and with a filing fee of $35.00 you’re done.
There is something called "a poor man’s copyright".
That’s when you mail yourself a copy of your own work. I recommend you put it in an envelop, take it to the post office
and have them stamp it with a date. When you get the mail DO NOT OPEN IT. The whole point is to prove the date that you created
the original work. File the sealed envelop in a place where you can find it. It’s not as good as an actual copyright,
but better than nothing.
When show biz people go around
shopping a story or a script they go to all meetings armed with a "Confidentiality Agreement" which says –
"this is my idea, you can’t use it". Why? It lets everyone know that one side intends to protect their "intellectual
property", so "don’t even think about using it without coughing up some dough."
You can do the same thing with all the work you do "as a favor". First you need to
be clear it’s not a favor, you’re just being polite. You’re betting that the business will make it and when
they do you want your piece. I suggest that you create a simple Licensing Agreement in the form of a letter.
What’s the letter need to say?
Describe the intellectual property, and give it a name - Exhibit A, so everyone’s on
the same page.
Add language that says exactly that
what your intellectual property can be used for. You need to spell it out – you’re covering all the drafts of
the final Exhibit A; brochures, mailers, website, etc., along with language that says it can only be used on the items on
your list. If they want to use it for other things, they need to ask you, and it needs to be in writing.
Then, and this is the big one – you need to say that the use is "Royalty/License
free" for say 3 months, or however long you think it’s reasonable for your friend to launch their business. THEN
you must say that Royalty/License Fees will be due beginning on ___ date. Setting a price beforehand is best.
If not, I recommend that you add: "If the parties can not agree
on a fee for Royalties/ Licensing, then the right to use your intellectual property [ Exhibit A] is revoked immediately."
I recommend that before you hand over this Exhibit A that you send
along this Letter Agreement and get it signed. Or say something like: "Please sign and return this letter/email, and
I will forward to you this Exhibit A.", or "Please return this email as consent to my terms, along with your request
for Exhibit A."
You must do this before you start
the back and forth on drafts or developing the work.
What
can I say? Step up to the plate and take care of your business. Don’t be afraid to assert your rights. No one’s
gonna do it for you.
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818)
753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
How To Make A Contract Stick
By Joann Deutch, Attorney ©
2010
People enter into contracts all the
time. The gardener and the homeowner have a contract, even if it’s oral. You and your brother-in-law are going
to start a business. You may have either made a deal and put it in writing, or are working on a deal, and plan to put it in
writing. The big question is what to write to be sure you can make the terms of the deal stick.
When you want
to establish a relationship with another person, or a business, and it either involves a fair amount of money, or the you
expect the relationship to last - you’d better put it in writing.
Why? By putting the deal in writing both
sides are forced to think about the details. Both sides are forced to think about what they want from this relationship.
If you don’t put these expectations on the table, then you run the possibility of either side saying, “Well,
I didn’t mean that”. This is music to a lawyer’s ears. Someone has to work out your disagreement,
and the lawyer is never cheap. In self-defense I might add here that most people who don’t know lawyers hate them,
but when you’re in a fix we’re your BFF.
Let’s get to the Practical Legal Pointers -
All contracts must have:
• The names of all of the parties.
- It’s best to describe them too.
Are they contracting for themselves individually, or are they contracting on behalf of a company? That’s why lawyers
use the term “parties”. It can mean either one person, a company, or a group of people. Spell out who are
the players.
- You should include an address where each party to the contract can be contacted. It’ll save
you a lot of grief later.
• A lawful purpose.
For example a contract to have a hit man take out your
“ex” is not legal. Trust me no Judge would enforce it. A contract to build an illegal addition to
your house is not lawful, even though it happens all the time. The problem is that you “come with unclean hands”
and a Court will not reward you.
• A description of what is to be done. We call this “ having all the
material terms expressed with certainty”. California Civil Code § 1558
- Who is supposed to do what
- What are the terms of payment
- You should put in some language that talks about when the work is properly done, and
who gets to decide that. Without any particular language in your deal, the law is that “if a reasonable person”
would be satisfied with how the job was done, it’s over. A lot of lawsuits are based on, “I’m not
satisfied.” Spell it out ahead of time. You don’t want the Judge or jury to decide what’s reasonable.
• The price for the contract needs to be reasonable.
- Think of it as a fair deal. It can even be a good
deal, but not highway robbery. You can’t get away with a contract where someone agrees to pay $1,000 to build a 3 bedroom
house. However, if someone has say a rare coin, a fair deal could still be a lot of money.
• The parties
need to agree to the terms of the contract.
- Technically only one side needs to sign the contract, and that’s
“the other guy”. Even if you didn’t sign it you can still enforce the agreement. However, the
other guy might have a problem. We call it “signed by the party to be charged” – that’s going
to be the Defendant.
- This might wind up with you being stuck with an “oral contact” instead of a “written
contract”.
- This is also where the “material terms” come into play. If you didn’t spell
them out, both sides may not have agreed to the same thing. Wham! You don’t have a contract you can
enforce.
• If an attorney is drafting the final contract language we will add “boilerplate” provisions.
- All changes need to be in writing and sign by both parties
-Will there be a clause that forces you to resolve all
disputes by Arbitration – usually a less expensive road to a final resolution.
Think about using this as one of
the clauses in your contract:
“This Agreement contains all of the agreements, representations, and understandings
of the parties hereto and supersedes any previous understandings, proposals, commitments or agreements, whether verbal or
written.”
If you decide to use a pre-printed contract form - say - off the internet, or from your industry, remember
even though it’s a pre-printed form, you can change whatever you don’t like by adding a written Addendum.
Good Luck!
Joann
Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Your Legal Right as an Employee to Breaks
By Joann Deutch, Attorney © 2010
It’s always great to have a good job, but sometimes you feel
like your boss is taking advantage of you. What are your Rights? What should you do? I’m going to give you lots of details
here, so read carefully. There is lots of stuff you need to know, and lots of BUTS.
Many of you have jobs with small companies, or work for an individual. In these difficult times,
you hate to "rock the boat" and make demands on your boss. Where does this leave you?
Start with knowing what the laws say your boss should do for you.
Getting right to the Practical Legal Pointers let’s start with your lunch break. If you
work more than 5 hours in a day you’re entitled to a 30 minute, uninterrupted lunch break. Note that I’ve said
entitled, not permitted. That means your boss is not doing you a favor by letting you take a lunch break. BUT there is an
exception. If you work only 6 hours a day, you and your boss can agree that you’re not going to take a lunch. Why would
you do this? Well because you can’t take the lunch as the last 30 minutes of your workday.
The bad news is that the meal break is usually not part of your paycheck. You don’t get
paid for those 30 minutes. BUT, once again there is an exception. If you have to stay at work, answer the phones, etc., that
is called an "on-duty" lunch. While your boss is not supposed to demand that of you unless there’s no one
else to cover the office, you get paid for an "on-duty" lunch. You and your boss are supposed to have a written
agreement about the "on-duty" lunch, which says that you can revoke the agreement anytime you want. BUT remember
if the "on-duty" lunch is part of the job requirement you may find yourself without a job.
The company faces stiff penalties for breaking these meal break rules. For every day that you
don’t get the "meal break" you are entitled to, the penalty is 1 hour of pay. BUT - are you sick of the "buts"
? The company only needs to allow you to take the meal break. California Labor Code Sec 226.7 They can’t stop you, but
they don’t need to force you out the door every day. If you decide to work, tough on you.
How do you get to collect this money you haven’t been paid ? You need to file a Wage
Claim with the California Department of Industrial Relations, Division of Labor Standards. Get the form from at: http://www.dir.ca.gov/dlse/Form1.pdf.
You can file the Claim while you’re still working, but you must file your Claim within 3 years of when you were forced
to miss the meal. That’s not 3 years after you quit or get fired. You can go back 3 years from the time you file your
complaint, so there’s no pointing in waiting. Remember that the 30 minutes paid "on-duty" meal time does not
count toward when you get paid overtime.
In addition
there are "break times" that your boss is required to give you. In an 8 hour day, you’re supposed to get a
10 minute break in the middle of the morning, and in the afternoon. The rules say one 10 minute break for every 4 hours worked.
Exactly when those breaks are given is not set in steel. Your boss has some flexibility. It’s a 10 minute break without
interruption, and doesn’t include running to the bathroom to pee during the day. Each of these breaks is "on the
clock". You get paid for them. Sometimes they are disguised as a 45 minute lunch break, especially if you get paid for
a lunch break and you leave the building.
You can’t
leave 10 minutes early and call it a break. If you work less than 3 ½ hours a day, there are no breaks for you.
You can get more information at the California Department of Industrial
Relations Office, located at: 6150 Van Nuys Blvd. Room 206, Van Nuys, Ca. 91401
Good Luck!
Joann
Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Good Manners In Court Count
By Joann Deutch, Attorney ©
2010
You’re
due to appear in Small Claims Court. You’re a nervous wreck. It always helps to know what to expect.
Here are
some Practical Pointers.
1. Be early – on time is not good enough
2.
Dress appropriately
3. Have your papers organized
4. Don’t have an attitude
You need to get there early because you have to talk to the other side. Even if you HATE that scum, talk to see if
you can settle. The Judge will ask you if you’ve done that. If not, you may get sent out into the hallway
later, and have to wait to have your case called again.
While you might not think it’s important, what you wear
and how you act is important. The minute you step into the Courtroom you are being judged by strangers who can help
you or hassle you. So don’t dress like you’re going to a night club. Don’t wear gangsta clothes.
The proper dress is “business casual”. That’s like when you are going for a big job interview. No
shorts, no flip flops. Ladies, no stomach showing. Guys, if you need to borrow your little brother’s clothes so
they look like they fit, do it. No hats, no shades.
Why? Part of the legal process includes judging which
side is telling the truth. If you dress with an eye toward being respectful to the Court and the judicial system, it’s
in your favor. After all, you’re there to win, right?
When you arrive outside the Courtroom you will see
a “Calendar”. That’s a set of long sheets of paper scotch taped to the wall. Your name should
be on the list. You should write down what number your case is on the calendar. If you need documents or information
on the case, if you know what number you were on the calendar it should make it easier to find your paperwork later.
It also helps you know when your case might be called. [There are some exceptions]. If you’re not on the list
check your Notice to Appear. Go inside the Courtroom and talk with the Bailiff.
Once inside the Courtroom, you’ll
see the Bailiff, in a brown/beige uniform. That could be a Marshall, or usually a Sherriff. Their job is to keep everything
orderly so the Judge can hear all the cases that are on the Calendar. You need to be seated. There is no bride’s
or groom’s side of the Courtroom. Sit in the spectator’s area. Either side will do. The first
row is usually for lawyers, so don’t sit there. The little half wall between the spectator area and the Judge
is called “The Bar”. No they aren’t serving drinks to calm your nerves. Stay behind “The
Bar”.
On one the side of the Judge’s bench is the Courtroom Clerk. That’s the person who takes care
of all of the paperwork and information. You can not go over to the Clerk without the permission of the Bailiff.
The area between the Counsel tables and the Judge and Clerk’s area is called “The Well”. Don’t
go in there. It’s a big No No.
When your case gets called you go to the Counsel tables, which are on the
Judge’s side of “The Bar”. The Plaintiff usually stands at the table on the right nearest the Jury Box [seating
area] or the Witness Box - if there is no Jury Box. The Plaintiff is the person who filed the Complaint. If you are
being sued, you’re the Defendant, and you stand on the right. There might be a sign telling which table is for the Plaintiff
and which is for the Defendant.
The Plaintiff goes first to tell their side of things. Don’t interrupt.
Then the Defendant tells their side of the story. Then the Defendant should comment on whatever the Plaintiff told the
Judge that was incorrect.
You’ll be nervous when the Judge asks you questions. Listen carefully, and answer
the question. Don’t blurt out whatever is on your mind. Answer the Judge’s question.
Good Luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with
offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Is the Honeymoon With Your Contractor Over?
By Joann Deutch, Attorney ©
2010
You don’t
wake up one morning and decide you can’t put up with your contractor anymore. It kinda creeps up on you. You come home
from work and can’t decide if you’re more irritated with your Contractor who actually showed up, but appears to
have accomplished nothing; or are you more relieved that he didn’t show up at all? And thereby didn’t mess anything
up?
What to do? Rest assured that your contractor knows
that if you boot him off the job, it’ll cost you more to finish the job with a new crew. Tends to make him a little
cocky. So let’s get to the practical pointers.
You
should always have enough reserves [money held back from the Contractor] so that if you are not satisfied with the work you
can fire the Contractor. It is commonplace to make several payments to the contractor over time, based upon what’s been
accomplished. Most legit Contractors will let you withhold 10% of the price of the job until everything is done to your satisfaction
- any yes there will be plenty of haggling over what’s reasonable in the "your satisfaction" department. Try
to get a bid that spells out the price for demolition; the price for ordering materials, say cabinets, toilets, door or windows,
etc. This will help you figure out what your periodic payments should look like. They don’t need to be even.
For the Contactor the demo part is cheap. He hires 3 guys at $180
per guy per day, for what 4-5 days? The dumpster is $250? The rest is pocket change for him. The 1/3 up front is pure malarkey.
The Contractor is far from done with 1/3 of the job when he rips down your walls.
When you get to the "buying of materials" be sure to make that check out to your Contractor AND the supplier.
You don’t want to learn that the Contactor has used your money for something other than your supplies. Be sure your
address is on the materials order, so that things are in your name – not your Contractor’s. Yes the supplier can
and will sue you even though you gave the Contactor the money for the materials.
As the guys who did the demo finish the job [and all the other "trades" that come in] get them to sign
a Full Release which says they’ve been paid. Contractors are notorious for not paying their crew on time. I’d
add a note on the release that the workers are "not claiming they were injured on the job" It’s a rare Contractor
that carries Worker’s Comp insurance these days, and you can bet your bepee that the worker will be looking to you and
your homeowner’s insurance for compensation. Technically they can’t waive Worker’s Comp rights, but it helps
your side of you get into a squabble with them later.
The
form should look something like this:
UNCONDITIONAL WAIVER AND RELEASE ON FINAL PAYMENT
The
undersigned has been paid in full for all labor, services, equipment, and/or material furnished to _________________ [customer]
on the job of _________________ [name of owner] located at _________________ [job description] and does hereby waive and release
any right to a mechanic’s lien, stop notice, any claims for labor and/or materials, or any right against a labor and
material bond on the job.
NOTICE: THIS DOCUMENT WAIVES
RIGHTS UNCONDITIONALLY AND STATES THAT YOU HAVE BEEN PAID FOR GIVING UP THOSE RIGHTS. THIS DOCUMENT IS ENFORCEABLE AGAINST
YOU IF YOU SIGN IT, EVEN IF YOU HAVE NOT BEEN PAID.
Date: _________________. _________________ [ name]
By _________________ [signature]
Hope that you don’t need this advice. Good luck!
Joann Deutch is an attorney with
offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net
Punk’d By The Cops?
By Joann Deutch, Attorney ©
2010
So you now have
a Traffic Ticket. What pisses you off even more is that you know it’s not fair. It’s not a good ticket. These
things happen all the time. The cop didn’t see what you saw, if he did you wouldn’t be the proud owner of a new
Traffic Ticket.
The Tin Man, that would be the traffic
cop, whom you swear has no heart, like the Tin Man in the Wizard of Oz, has given you a moving violation. Now that you think
about it, what really pisses you off is that you need to take precious time off from work to tell the Judge all about it.
But, I can help you here. Take the Notice to Appear - flip it over.
On the bottom you will see a little paragraph that tells you that you have the right to fight the ticket by Written Declaration.
You can only do this for infractions, not misdemeanors, like DUIs.
You can actually write the Judge, explain what happened. You don’t need to go to Court. It’s a good deal.
If you don’t like the outcome you can ask for a Trial De Novo, and hustle back into Court with your beef.
Here are your guidelines: On the front of your Notice to Appear,
there will be a Vehicle Code that you’ve violated. See the little boxes half way down the ticket? # 23500 - That’s
California Vehicle Code 22350 - exceeding the speed limit. Know what your Code violation is. Then go look it up on Google,
or go to the Law Library @ the Van Nuys Courthouse [3rd floor, 10 AM to 2 PM – take a right off the elevator]. Does
the Code section match what the officer said you did?
California
Vehicle Code 22526 is one of my favorite examples. Anti-gridlock. You pull up in the intersection on a green light ready to
take a left. 5 cars cut you off so you can’t get through the intersection before the light changes. Is that fair?Get
Your Proof Together. If the Speed Limit sign has been knocked down, take a picture. If the Stop sign is all but invisible
because of the trees, and there is no limit line painted on the street, take a picture.Write a Declaration.
Start with, " I, ________, am over
the age of 18, and a resident of the County of Los Angeles, and state as follows:". Now tell your story. Make it neat,
short and sweet. End the Declaration with a Jurat which says, " I, _________, hereby declare that the foregoing is true
and correct to the best of my knowledge. Executed this __ day of ____, 2009 in Los Angeles, California." Fill in the
date, and sign it.
You
need to enclose a copy of the Notice to Appear, a check for the bail amount, and your proof. I always suggest you go to Kinko’s
or Office Depot and make a copy for yourself. Mail all of this Certified Mail. You can go to the Automated Postal Machine
inside the Post Office, it’s like an ATM for stamps. Saves a lot of standing in line time. KEEP the receipt and copies.
This needs to be in the mail before your Appearance Date, so don’t
mess around. Good Luck!
Joann
Deutch is an attorney with offices in Studio City --(818) 753-9922 -- Website: JoannDeutch.net -- Email: attorney@JoannDeutch.net